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Why We Don't Install Cedar Siding

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Cedar Has a Real Case For It — Here's What It Gets Right

We'll start with the honest part: cedar siding earns its reputation. It's a genuinely beautiful material, with a warm grain and natural variation that no manufactured product fully replicates. It's a renewable resource, it's been used on homes in the Pacific Northwest for well over a century, and it fits the architectural character of a lot of Bellingham and Whatcom County neighborhoods — especially craftsman homes, cabins, and properties near the water where a natural look feels right. Cedar is also naturally resistant to insects and has decent rot resistance compared to other untreated woods, thanks to the tannins and oils in the wood itself.

If cedar were a low-maintenance material, we'd install it. It isn't, and that's the entire reason for this page.

What Cedar Siding Actually Asks Of a Homeowner

Cedar is a living material even after it's milled and nailed to a wall. It expands, contracts, and moves with moisture and temperature. To keep that movement from turning into cracking, cupping, and rot, cedar needs an ongoing maintenance relationship — not a one-time install and forget it.

  • Refinishing (stain or paint) every 3-7 years depending on exposure, sun, and finish quality
  • Recaulking of joints and trim as the wood moves and seals fail
  • Regular washing to remove mildew, algae, and moss before it takes hold
  • Prompt replacement of individual boards that split, cup, or start to rot
  • Inspection of end grain and butt joints, the two spots where water intrusion starts
  • Keeping vegetation, sprinklers, and gutters from holding moisture against the siding

None of these are unreasonable asks in isolation. Added up over the life of a house, they're a real, recurring cost — in money if you hire it out, in time if you do it yourself. That's the trade-off we ask homeowners to think through before they commit to cedar.

Why Bellingham's Climate Is Especially Hard on Cedar

Every region is tough on wood siding in its own way, but Whatcom County stacks a few specific challenges on top of each other. We get salt-laden air off Bellingham Bay and the Strait of Georgia, which accelerates finish breakdown and corrodes fasteners faster than an inland climate would. We get long stretches of driving rain, often blown sideways by wind off the water, that finds its way into any gap in the finish or caulking. And we get a genuinely long moss and algae season — mild, damp winters and shoulder seasons that give organic growth months at a time to establish itself on north-facing and shaded walls.

Cedar's natural resistance to rot and insects helps, but it was never designed to shrug off constant film-forming moisture and salt exposure without a maintained finish protecting it. Once that finish starts to fail — and in this climate, that happens faster than in drier parts of the country — bare cedar starts absorbing water directly into the end grain, and that's where the real damage begins.

Moss Isn't Just Cosmetic

A moss-covered wall isn't only an appearance problem. Moss and algae hold moisture against the wood surface long after a storm has passed, which keeps the siding wet for far longer than it would otherwise be. On a home shaded by mature trees or facing away from direct sun — common on plenty of Bellingham lots — that extended dampness is exactly the condition that lets rot get started underneath an otherwise intact-looking finish.

Moisture, Rot, and the Hidden Costs

The failure pattern we see most with cedar siding isn't dramatic. It's slow. A butt joint or a cut end that wasn't sealed lets in a small amount of water. The finish over it starts to fail a little faster than the rest of the wall. Moss or algae takes hold in that damp spot. A few seasons later, what looked like a cosmetic issue turns out to be soft wood underneath, and the fix isn't a touch-up — it's board replacement, and sometimes sheathing repair if water got behind the siding.

This is the part of cedar ownership that's hardest to see coming, because the wood can look fine on the surface right up until it doesn't. It's also the part that tends to surprise homeowners who bought a house with existing cedar siding and didn't budget for the maintenance history it needed.

Fire, Insurance, and Long-Term Risk

Cedar is combustible wood siding. That's not a knock on the product — it's just a physical fact worth factoring in, especially as wildfire risk and insurance underwriting standards get more attention across Washington. Non-combustible siding materials are increasingly favored by insurers and, in some jurisdictions, by building codes in higher-risk zones. It's a secondary consideration next to the maintenance issue, but it's part of the honest comparison.

Cedar vs. James Hardie: The Real Numbers Over Time

Here's how the two materials actually compare over a typical ownership period, based on what each product requires to perform as intended:

FactorCedar SidingJames Hardie Fiber Cement
Refinishing scheduleEvery 3-7 years (stain/paint)Not required — factory ColorPlus finish, 15-year finish warranty
Moisture behaviorAbsorbs water at end grain and joints if finish failsEngineered to resist moisture intrusion and won't rot
CombustibilityCombustibleNon-combustible fiber cement
Moss/algae resistanceSusceptible, especially on shaded wallsResistant surface, easier to wash clean
Insect resistanceNaturally decent, not immuneNot a food source for insects
Typical product warrantyManufacturer/species dependent, no finish coverage30-year limited transferable warranty on the plank itself
Upfront material costModerate to highModerate to high
Lifetime cost (material + upkeep)Lower upfront, higher ongoingComparable upfront, lower ongoing

The upfront cost of the two materials is often closer than people expect. The real difference shows up over ten, twenty, and thirty years, in what each one demands from the homeowner to keep looking and performing the way it did on day one.

What Proper Cedar Maintenance Actually Requires

We're not going to pretend cedar can't be made to last — it can, with real commitment. If a homeowner insists on cedar somewhere else, or already has it and wants to protect the investment, here's the honest maintenance checklist it takes:

  • Wash the siding annually to remove pollen, salt residue, and early moss/algae growth
  • Reapply stain or a breathable finish on the schedule the product actually needs, not just when it looks bad
  • Seal all cut ends and joints during any repair or replacement work — this is where most failures start
  • Trim back vegetation and maintain a gap between plantings and the wall
  • Check and clear gutters so overflow doesn't run down the siding face
  • Inspect low, shaded, and north-facing walls each fall before the wet season sets in
  • Replace individual failing boards promptly rather than waiting for a full-wall problem

That's a real, recurring commitment — not a scare tactic, just what the material needs in this climate to hold up the way homeowners picture it holding up when they choose it.

Why We Standardized on James Hardie Instead

We made a decision as a company to install one siding system — James Hardie fiber cement — rather than offer several products with very different maintenance realities. Hardie's HZ5 product line is engineered specifically for climates like ours: wet, mild, and prone to moisture cycling rather than freeze-thaw extremes. It's non-combustible, it doesn't feed moss and algae the way bare or finished wood can, and the ColorPlus factory finish means the color goes on under controlled conditions and is backed by a real finish warranty — not something a crew is hand-applying on a ladder in variable weather.

We're not installing Hardie because it's trendy. We're installing it because after years of doing exterior work in Whatcom County's salt air, rain, and moss, it's the product that holds up with the least ongoing burden on the homeowner. That's the standard we'd want for our own home, and it's the one we bring to every job.

Making the Right Call for Your Home

If you already have cedar siding and it's in good shape, we're not going to tell you to rip it off — a well-maintained cedar exterior can still have useful life left in it. But if you're planning new construction, a full re-side, or you're looking at a cedar exterior that's showing its age and wondering what the real cost of keeping it going looks like, we think you deserve a straight answer before you commit another few decades to a maintenance schedule.

If you'd like to talk through what your home's exterior actually needs — whether that's an honest look at your existing cedar or a look at what a Hardie re-side would involve — we're happy to come take a look. The estimate is free and there's no pressure either way.

FAQ

Frequently asked questions

Is cedar siding still commonly installed on new homes in this area?

It's less common than it used to be, mostly because of the ongoing maintenance it requires compared to newer engineered and fiber cement products. Some builders still use it for its look, especially on cabin-style or high-end custom homes, but most production and replacement work has shifted toward lower-maintenance materials. It still shows up a lot on older Bellingham and Whatcom County homes that were built when it was the standard choice.

How do I know if a contractor is giving me an honest picture of a siding product's downsides?

Ask what the material needs five, ten, and twenty years down the road, not just what it costs to install. A contractor who only talks about upfront price and appearance, and can't clearly explain the maintenance schedule or moisture behavior of a product, isn't giving you the full picture. It's also worth asking directly why a contractor installs the products they do and not others — a straight answer about trade-offs is a good sign.

What's the difference between cedar lap siding and cedar shakes or shingles?

Cedar lap siding is milled into long horizontal boards installed like clapboard, while shakes and shingles are individual overlapping pieces, either hand-split (shakes) or sawn (shingles), that create a more textured, rustic look. Both are the same species of wood and share the same core maintenance needs — finish upkeep, joint sealing, and vulnerability to moisture at cut edges. Shakes and shingles generally have more seams, which can mean more spots for water to find a way in over time.

Can old cedar siding be refinished instead of fully replaced?

Sometimes, if the wood underneath is still sound and hasn't rotted or delaminated. Refinishing involves stripping or prepping the old finish, replacing any damaged boards, resealing joints and end grain, and applying a fresh stain or coating. It's worth having someone assess the actual condition of the wood before assuming a fresh coat of stain will solve what's really a moisture or rot problem underneath.

Does Whatcom County's rain and moss really make that much difference compared to a drier climate?

Yes — cedar siding in a drier inland climate can go longer between refinishing and deals with far less moss and algae pressure than siding here. Bellingham's combination of salt air, wind-driven rain off the Strait, and a long damp season means finishes break down faster and organic growth gets a real foothold on shaded walls. It's not that cedar performs differently as a material here, it's that our climate exercises its weaknesses more aggressively and more often.

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